'My Portugal' is our newsletter series celebrating Portuguese culture through conversations with friends of Portugalia Marketplace. This month, we are highlighting Nuno Sousa, Executive Chef & Owner of Leitao in New York City.
Nuno Sousa is the Executive Chef & Owner of Leitao. A native of Northern Portugal, Nuno arrived in New York City in 2015 with little more than an American dream in his back pocket. After years as a successful League 2 and 3 Soccer Coach in his home country, he made the decision to move to the United States and pursue his true passion of becoming a Chef in the Big Apple. With determination and a drive to succeed, he quickly made his mark on the culinary scene. His journey eventually led to the transformation of a West Village beer pub into Leitao, which is an homage to his Portuguese roots. His culinary approach celebrates fresh, authentic flavors with a modern twist, inviting New Yorkers to discover the soul of Portugal, one dish at a time.
Portugalia Marketplace: You were born and raised in Galegos Santa Maria, Barcelos, not far from the coast. How did growing up so close to the Atlantic shape your early understanding of ingredients and flavor?
Nuno Sousa: Growing up in Galegos Santa Maria, Barcelos, shaped everything about the way I understand ingredients and flavor. I was close enough to the Atlantic to feel the importance of the sea, but also surrounded by the richness of the countryside and the mountains. From an early age, I had access to the best that nature could offer. For me, the idea of farm-to-table was not a trend—it was simply life.
I grew up seeing how food came directly from the source. Fishermen would return with the daily catch, and fresh fish would quickly make its way into people’s homes. At the same time, families were raising animals, growing vegetables, and sharing what they had with one another. That gave me a deep respect for simplicity, generosity, and, above all, quality.
That environment taught me that great cooking starts with great ingredients. You do not need to do too much when the product is exceptional. You let the ingredient speak for itself and make it the star. That is really the foundation of how I developed my sense of flavor.
PM: You’ve credited your mother’s cooking as your foundation. Is there one specific dish or aroma from her kitchen that instantly transports you back to your childhood in Portugal?
NS: Yes, my mother had a tremendous impact on me. One of the aromas that instantly takes me back to childhood is refogado - what many people here would compare to sofrito. That slow-cooked base is really the foundation of so much Portuguese cooking, and it was always present in my mother’s kitchen. For me, that smell means home.
The other dish that immediately brings me back is her octopus. I grew up eating polvo, and it was always something very special. It was not an everyday dish, so when we had it, it felt like an occasion. Between the aroma of the refogado and the memory of her octopus, those are the flavors that most vividly connect me to my childhood in Portugal.
PM: What was the biggest culture shock you experienced when first entering a professional New York City kitchen compared to those in Portugal?
NS: Actually, I never worked in a professional kitchen in Portugal, so my first real experience in that world was in New York. For me, stepping into a professional kitchen was the realization of a dream. Before cooking, I worked in soccer, and in many ways I saw a connection between the two. A kitchen, like a football team, is a kind of symphony—many people moving together, each with a specific role, all working toward the same goal.
Because I did not cook professionally in Portugal, I cannot compare the day-to-day kitchen culture from direct experience. But my perception was that many restaurants there were more family-based, with smaller teams and a different structure. In New York, what really struck me was the level of organization, the precision, and how clearly defined every role was. It was intense, of course, with long hours, but it was also incredibly inspiring to see that level of professionalism.
I loved being part of that environment. It confirmed for me that this was the world I wanted to be in, and it pushed me to grow and become part of those kinds of teams.
PM: You have a deep respect for sourcing, whether locally or authentically imported. Which Portuguese-imported ingredients are "non-negotiable" in your kitchen?
NS: For me, sourcing always comes back to the heart of Portuguese cuisine, which is simplicity and respect for the ingredient. If there is one Portuguese-imported product that is completely non-negotiable in my kitchen, it is olive oil. Portuguese olive oil is extraordinary. We have incredible variety, and there are generations of knowledge behind it—people who have spent decades understanding the land, the soil, and how to produce something truly special. It is not just an ingredient; it is one of the foundations of Portuguese cooking.
For me, it is essential because it brings authenticity, depth, and identity to the food. If I want to cook Portuguese cuisine with honesty and respect, Portuguese olive oil has to be there.
PM: At Vella and now Leitao, what are your hopes for the diners’ experience of Portuguese cuisine?
NS: At Vella, Portuguese cuisine was only one part of the conversation, because the restaurant was more Mediterranean in its identity. But at Leitao, it is a fully Portuguese experience—from the food to the wine list. What I hope diners experience when they come to Leitão is the depth, variety, and soul of Portuguese cuisine.
Portugal may be a small country, but the cuisine is incredibly diverse. We have an amazing range of seafood, meats, regional specialties, and dishes that can feel both comforting and adventurous at the same time. For me, Portuguese food is not about luxury in the traditional sense—it is about warmth, generosity, and honesty. It is homey, deeply rooted in tradition, and always centered on respecting the ingredient.
That is what I want guests to feel. I want them to taste the simplicity, but also the care behind it—to understand that when the ingredient is beautiful, it should be the star of the dish. And beyond that, I hope the experience sparks curiosity. Portuguese cuisine is still being discovered by many people, and if someone comes to Leitão and leaves wanting to learn more, travel to Portugal, or explore the culture more deeply, then I feel we have done something meaningful.
PM: What impact do music and atmosphere have as part of the "taste" of Portugal in your restaurant?
NS: Music and atmosphere are extremely important because they are part of how people truly experience the taste of Portugal. Food is never just about what is on the plate—it is about emotion, memory, and the feeling you create around the table.
That is especially true during our Fado Night at Leitao. On those nights, we bring Portuguese culture to life in a deeper way through a multi-course dinner paired with Portuguese wines, together with live Fado performance. When you combine the food, the wines, the singing, and the sound of the Portuguese guitar, it creates something much more complete and emotional.
It gives guests a real sense of Portugal—not only through taste, but through atmosphere, music, and feeling. For me, that is what makes the experience so special.
Chourico Caseiro
I use this at Leitao and at home. It's a household staple!
I mention this olive oil to everyone, and everyone that listens to me obsesses over this brand and the wonderful people behind it. Its quality is unmatched; it's the only olive oil we use at Leitao and in our home.
Handpainted Clay Casserole
Ceramics and clay are such a huge part of Portugal. I try to integrate as many pieces as possible at Leitao and I just love the selection that Portugalia curates - they're all so beautifully done.
