My Portugal Series: Emeril Lagasse
Portugalia Marketplace: Many of our customers may not know this, but you were raised right here in Fall River, Massachusetts. Can you share some of your memories of growing up in the vibrant Portuguese community of Fall River?
Emeril Lagasse: Yes, I was born and raised in Fall River. My mom was Portuguese with Azorean roots, and my dad was French Canadian, but my mom ruled the house, so we grew up Portuguese. Being a part of the Portuguese community was the majority of my childhood memories. My mom was a big cook, so everything at home was Portuguese or at least heavily influenced. We would go to St. John's Club all the time, and my first job was in a Portuguese bakery. Even Portuguese music was a massive part of my childhood. I played in a band, and we would regularly play at Portuguese festivals.
PM: Are there certain aspects of Portuguese culture or cuisine that influenced your passion for the culinary arts?
EL: Portuguese food was my first influence, so it's been the foundation of my cooking. The ingredients, garlic, seafood, chorizo, I could go on and on! Even the techniques were taught to me by my mom. Being in Fall River, surrounded by the food and culture of Portuguese people, sparked an early interest in food. Honestly, it was hard not to; we are very passionate about food, and it was infectious.
PM: Your journey from Fall River to becoming a renowned chef in New Orleans is truly inspiring. What were some of the pivotal moments in your career that contributed to your success?
EL: All artists need to have at least one mentor, and I had many mentors from the food, restaurant, and hospitality circles along the way. I'd be remiss not to mention Ella Brennan. She took a chance at hiring me as the executive chef of Commander's Palace. I was young, and she gave me an opportunity not to have a job, but to grow and step up to the plate. Being the next after [chef] Paul Prudhomme was a lot of pressure but a pivotal moment in my career.
PM: We're excited for the debut of your latest venture, 34 Restaurant and Bar, your "love letter" to Portugal that's set to open in New Orleans this year. Can you tell us more about what inspired this project?
EL: I must say I'm so excited about this restaurant. While the Portuguese food culture has influenced the foundation of my passion, this is the first time we are opening a Portuguese restaurant. Of course, it's going to have some fun twists. For me, it's all about sharing my roots, and my team and I have been traveling to Portugal and Fall River for R&D. It will be vibrant, European, certainly delicious, and in a format I like to eat: one of everything to share!
PM: We understand that this new restaurant will be a collaboration with your son, E.J. How did you navigate E.J.'s interest in the culinary arts so that he wouldn't feel pressure to follow in your footsteps, but also feel supported should he wish to?
EL: I never put pressure on E.J.. At the beginning, when he told his mom and I [about his interest], I was a little surprised. Now, I feel like it was meant to be because he is so talented. He is making a way for himself and has developed his own unique style. I am as much, if not more, a student watching him cook than I am a teacher. He is truly a fine young man, and I am a proud dad. I am also so happy to have his talent on my team.
PM: What traditional Portuguese dishes are you excited to feature in your new restaurant? Are you planning to stick with traditional recipes, or will there be some surprises on the menu?
EL: Traditional pork and clams, Shrimp Mozambique, incredible rice dishes, and, most importantly, cured meats and cheeses, mostly from Portugal. We have a jamón bar that I'm excited about.
PM: Looking back on your career, what advice would you give to aspiring chefs who want to honor their heritage while making a mark in the culinary world?
EL: You have to work hard, have a mentor, read, and get up every day trying a little harder than the day before. I'd also say to honor your roots, but explore places and cuisines you're not familiar with. There is endless inspiration and room for learning and growth if you stay curious.
