The "Faithful Friend"
Discovered by the Vikings, who fished it abundantly in the cold Nordic seas, cod has earned the title of Portugal's "faithful friend" and was once known as the “bread of the tides.” The intriguing and enduring relationship between this maritime nation and a dried fish not native to its coast began in the 14th century, with trade treaties with England exchanging salt for cod. In the mid-1500s, a Portuguese expedition to India stumbled upon Newfoundland, leading to Portuguese cod fishing. However, national fishermen were soon driven out by English and French privateers who dominated the fishing grounds.
For centuries, cod was a delicacy reserved for the Royal House and aristocracy, gradually spreading inland in the 19th century due to its easy preservation and transport. On July 9, 1920, the Companhia Portuguesa de Pesca was established in Almada, spurring the growth of the canning and fishing industry. Cod consumption surged under the Estado Novo regime, which aimed to reduce dependence on imports and secure the country's food supply, culminating in the famous Cod Campaign of 1934. Cod fishing vessels, known as luggers, departed from Belém, carrying small boats for line fishing and capable of transporting between 900 and 950 tons of salted cod. This arduous and dangerous fishing method often resulted in loss of lives. During World War II, Portuguese cod fishing vessels were painted white to signify neutrality, earning them the name "White Fleet." The "Creoula," launched in 1937, participated in cod fishing campaigns until 1973 and now serves as a training vessel for the Portuguese Navy, alongside other former cod fishing luggers like the “Santa Maria Manuela,” “Argus,” and “Gazela.”
After the war, cod fishing became a symbol of the corporate system, and by 1957, Portugal was the world's leading producer of dried salted cod. The curing process began on fishing boats, where cod was immediately salted and then dried outdoors upon reaching land. Major salt production occurred at the Salinas do Samouco in Alcochete, with nearby facilities for drying and preparing the cod. The last fleet of cod boats departed for Newfoundland in 1974, coinciding with the fall of Portugal's dictatorship. Today, cod remains a beloved staple in Portugal, with the saying that there are 1001 ways to cook it. Currently, 70% of cod comes from Norway, and the Portuguese consume 20% of the world's catch, emphasizing sustainable consumption, climate change awareness, and the fish's culinary versatility.
